Another Leak fixed on the 2002 K1200RS 

by Deryle Mehrten

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Another Leak Plugged!

Our new-to-us K1200RS got a work out this past June when Wanda and I met up with 21 other liked minded SEAT members at Prescott for the SEAT Annual June Overnighter.  We did a good stretch of I-10 and a bit of I-8 on the RS as we rode to Gila Bend for our gas and cool off stop.  The RS, or Rotti as we have been calling her, runs fine and pulls hard up to as fast as we wanted to go.  A couple of passes took us over the ton, but not much.

When we bought the RS used from Cochise Motorsports in October of 2012 she had a dead battery, old brake lines and a massive 
oil leak from the transmission case.  It took me more than a month to do a clutch o ring and main seal replacement.  All the other seals on the rear drive and transmission had no seeps or weeps.  All the brake lines were replaced and the ABS pumps were flushed.  

After several 
day trips around the southeastern corner of Arizona, a couple of SEAT lunches, and a bit of computer work at Iron Horse, I pronounced the Rotti ready for an overnighter.  There were no apparent leaks, runs or drips from any of the joints or seals that I could see.  Also, all the temp sensors and the fans were working properly.

When we got home after 788 miles and three days of riding, I found a pretty good oil leak coming from the cam chain cover.  Where the head meets the block there is a small gap that over time may allow a seep or leak.  The Rotti had a leak, the front of the cover and bottom of the oil pan had a nice coating of dirty road grunk stuck on by a stream of oil.  Time to fix another leak.

 

To get the cam chain cover off I needed to remove all the body work, the gas tank, air plenum and the radiators. Because the crank cover and the valve cover overlap with the cam chain cover, they too needed to come off.  There is no gasket on the cam chain cover, a sealant is applied that keeps the cover oil tight.  To get the lower water temp sensor and the oil temp sensor wires out of the way, they have to pass through a hole in the water pump.  Consequently, the water pump cover has to be removed and it too has no gasket and uses a sealant to keep it water tight.

The hall effect sensors and the plates below them need to be removed as well.  The HES cover plate has a cork gasket that in my case was not damaged, I reused it.  The HES wire was in excellent shape.  Before I removed the HES plate I scribed two lines across the HES plate and the engine block.  I would later use them to realign the plate in order to maintain the proper engine timing.  The two screws that hold the HES plate on have two horseshoe shaped washers that keep the plate at the correct level.  They are easy to drop, for sure.  Three small screws under the HES plate hold the timing adjusting plate and bowl to the block.  They come out easily and there is a pin that insures they will be aligned correctly when reassembled.

A special tool, or a 1/8 inch drill bit, is needed to keep the cam chain tensioner locked back in order to pull the cam chain cover off.   The drill is passed through the only hole in the cam cover that is plugged with a torx head screw.  With the drill bit holding the tensioner back it took a couple of blows with a rubber mallet to get the cover to break loose.  There are three different sizes of screws that hold the cover on, and one screw that does not come completely out of the cover.  That screw and a locator pin are the only line ups needed. 

Once all four cover were removed, it was only a matter of cleaning up all the surfaces, applying a sealant then bolting it all back up.  All went well…it seemed.

To see how my leak fix went, Wanda and I took a 220 mile ride around the block.  We did brunch and coffee in Douglas at the Gadsden Hotel then came home the back, back way.  I took the bike right to the back shop and put her up on the stand.  Damn, there was a serious oil leak running down from the HES cover.  There is a seal in the cam chain cover that goes over the crank end where the HES plate sits.  I did not reseat the seal on the shaft correctly.  It had folded and was leaking badly.  

To make a long story short, I did everything again.  This time I drove in a new seal and paid special attention to how the seal fit over the crank end.  After a 24 hour set up time for the sealant and an initial warm up to make sure the radiators were completely filled, we went for a test ride.  I felt confident the old oil leak and my newly induced leak were sealed up tight.  

The Rotti is back on the road and ready for another loop around Arizona.